Thanjavur history

Thanjavur History

Compilation of memories:  A Thanjavur Story

Early Chola’s: 300 B.C – 200 A.D

Later Chola’s: 846 A.D – 1225 A.D

Thanjavur, a small town in South India, had been the capital city for the later Cholas who ruled from 846 A.D to 1225 A.D. It has been renowned for its Archaeological importance, particularly because of the Big Temple and other remnants from the later Cholan period.  However, the palace relics from the great King Raja Raja Cholan have never been found. This perhaps has been due to lack of funds for the excavation, growing population, town developments, constructional and political intrusion (hardly surprising). Great palaces and magnificent buildings from the grand Chola kingdom were demolished during the 14^th century by Maravarman Sundara Pandian, to avenge the long induced suppression of Pandya kingdom by the mighty Cholas for over three centuries also fuelled by the chola’s atrocities over previous battle in 1205 whenJatavarman Sundara pandian elder brother of Sundara Cholan was defeated by Kulothunga chola and the pandian coronation hall in Madurai was burned to ashes. It is mentioned in historical texts Sundara Pandyan’s victories over Cholas are described in the Thirukkolur ( Tirunelveli district) inscriptions. Following the defeat of Cholas and extermination of the buildings belonging to Cholas, the then powerful king Maravarman Sundera Pandian ordered to plough the Chola’s capital city with donkeys and planted cactuses all over the kingdom.  The cactuses remained for generations, forever marking the wrath of Sundera Pandian, despite the exceptional developments and formidable ruling by the Nayakkar Kingdom in the 17^th Century.  As a result of the cactuses, places around Thanjavur were widely known as “Kallikaadu”. Fortunately, all of the kingdoms of Cheras, Pandyas and Cholas where adherent to Tamil literature and were predominantly devotees of Shiva. This prevented them, with insistence from great Tamil poets, from annihilating any Temples and Tamil literature scripts.

Maratha Palace

Pictures of Thanjavur Big Temple and Paintings from Chola period

Nayakkar rule: 1535 A.D – 1675 A.D

Thanjavur, like New Delhi, further faced a golden period during the rule of the Nayakkar; In 1535 A.D, Vijayanagara emperor Achutha Devaraya established the Thanjavur Nayak’s rule. He appointed Sevappa Nayak as the first ruler of Thanjavur kingdom. The Nayak rule continued up to 1675 A.D. The Nayakkar were known for their talents in Cultural Arts. Their rule was Harmonious and the civilisation flourished as it had during the time of the Cholas. Their construction of the town was exceptional; the evidence remains even today, each monument kindles a historians mind.

The main Thanjavur town is made of 4 streets as Raja Veethi’s (North, South, East, and West) and the extension from northern side is place known as Karanthatangudi (Karunthitaikudi) separated by a small stream or a river called Vadavaru, this existed during the Chola period, according to Neelakanda Shastri.This place Karanthatangudi has existed from Raja Raja Chola’s period, according to Writer Balakumaran (Udaiyaar) people who had lived here were mainly blacksmiths Their primary duty was in building chariots for Great king Rajendra Chola for Warfare (For a large portion of my childhood I have lived in these areas). The water supply for the main town was planned in a remarkable way; I have given the details using Google maps.

“Raja Paattai” This was presumably the road that chola Kings used between Palaiyarai Palace and Thanjavur Palace with the evidence so far available

Current State of Samantham Kulam

Current State of Ayiyan Kulam

The landscape is such that the rainfall during monsoon season is collected and diverted to a reservoir called Sevappa Eeri (Sevappan Lake) from were it is again diverted to Sivaganga tank.

The Sivaganga tank lies outside the four Veethi’s, which is again connected to Ayiyan Kulam in North Main Street and Samanthan Kulam in East Main Street through an underground aqueduct. The Samanthan Kulam now remains forever dry, due to a block in the tunnel caused by the renovation of a family home in South Main Street by a celebrity during the seventies (so we used this Samanthan Kulam as our cricket ground in 70’s after it dried up).

The water for North Main Street is mainly from Vadavaru, no longer lives up to its name as a perennial river, as a result of sewage pollution. Also from epigraphical references the current course of Vadavaru has changed from its original course to slightly north.

The main Veethi’s were well constructed they were broad and straight, and were used by the kings for processions. The palace that remains today, in Thanjavur belongs to Marathi Kings who ruled Thanjavur during 18^th century, until it was finally taken over by British government.

During later chola period Thanjavur seems to have been the main Administrative capital, but the actual home for Raja Rajan and his queens was near kumbakonam in a place called Palaiyarai, proven by the discovery of few  ‘Pallipadai Temples’ (remembrance tomb). recently stone inscriptions were found in a nearby temple in a place called Udayalur. Historians believe it to be the “Pallipadai Temple” for King Raja Raja I. However, the evidence is not solid enough to validate this speculation.

Most of the village names around these places are actually factual names (e.g. place called Maaligai Medu near Gangaikonda Cholapuram was the place where Rajendra chola had his palace as proven by a recent excavation.) Similarly there is place called Paalkulam near Darasuram in kumbakonam, where when a local villager started renovation of his house, found an ancient stairwell leading to a pond, out of sheer anxiety that his house will be taken over by the Archaeology department, he abandoned the work. It is speculated that this may have been the royal pond for the queens, as the local villager who preferred to remain anonymous said he saw ‘Pavai vilakku’ (statue of women with small lantern in hand) on either side of the stairwell.

The main trunk road used by Cholas between Thanjavur and Palaiyarai palace in kumbakonam, is different to the current highway. The actual road stems through Avoor from Thanjavur to kumbakonam. Some buses to kumbakonam go via Avoor and many other villages that are believed to have buried hidden treasures from Ancient India.

The Grateful & Fateful History of  Thanjavur

History always leaves marks from which we can comprehend and recreate facts or even hypothesis. In the western world we see the creation of live history from Dinosaurs, to ‘lost Atlantis’ and ‘Lost Titanic’.

Thanjavur is a similar subject for recreation rather than hypothesis because there is so much tangible evidence available; sadly not recognized by the locals and exploited by the Town scavengers.  Indian ‘Bollywood’ needs a Spielberg to bring life to this Ancient capital town.

Whether past or present the hallmark of big and busy city is garbage. Thanjavur has those living past in places like Vaddakku Vassal, Keelavaasal, and Maerkku alangam. The people still live there are from that generation of once city dwellers these people can be referred as outlier’s. (The location of these outliers considerably gives information of the site of the town market places in the history. Usually the market places are situated to the city gates). However, their state of living is something sad and has never changed over centuries. Besides, ignoring their presence. Who has the time and mind set in this modern world to walk along those places that can take you back in time!

In olden terminology the cities are referred as ‘Pattinam’ and the extensions are referred, as ‘Paakkam’. The Places around Thanjavur are some of those examples of great civilization once flourished. (Athirampatinam, Mallipatinam etc.). These are now referred as ‘Kuppam’ meaning the locality of outliers. These outliers are the remains of once flourished civilization that has moved or urbanized from evolutionary changes and modernizations with change in kingdoms and rulers. (Example: Early chola kingdom capital changed from Poompuhar near Tarangambadi following the Tsunami to Uraiyur in Thiruchirapalli before moved to Thanjavur during later chola period).

The generations of people who can go back in time to 4 decades in memory can certainly recreate the time back for 4 centuries. The reason is much of the monuments; sculptures, ruins the landscaping and town planning were left preserved alongside culture, tradition and stances of Thanjavur people until few decades before the major developments that has started lately.

The people lived in the old town (Karanthatangudi, Keelavaasal, Palliagraharam, and the four major Veethee’s around the main town) in the 1960’s and 70’s. Started to move to the new expansion extending from shivaji Nagar to medical college. Still one can see the houses in the old town taking us at least 100 years in history. With more modern houses built in the expansion areas people migrated to those extensions areas. Those who cannot afford or the generation that got stuck to their traditions still in old town or have their roots in those places.

This local migration and the remains from old town and changes from modernization in the new developments in 100 years of history is a classical replication

Thanjavur fortunately for preserving the history but unfortunate for modern developments is quite a laid back town until the end of 20^th century. Since then, Lot of developments in and around Thanjavur has happened in the last decade.

If we survey the recent developments around this town in the last 3 to 4 decades by doing some cross sectional analytical studies that would take us back in time to see those imprints of history that one can familiarize with, before proposing the nearest explanations and postulating the hypothetical theories. This I have discussed with many of those people mentioned as patriots of Thanjavur. And, I got back an insinuating smile from them.

The old town of Thanjavur was mainly the area between old bus stand, Keelavaasal and karanthatangudi up to Palliagraharam. Srinivasapuram on the west side of west Main Street was the first development to happen in Thanjavur followed by the areas from Ganapathi Nagar to medical college third gate.

The delayed development in Thanjavur was actually a blessing in disguise for true historians. The main reason was BHEL in Thiruchirapalli that lead to the consideration for the development of Thiruchirapalli. However, Some major town planning in the recent decade has happened with more educational institutions and improved highway with increasing population; that has taken this heritage town’s history to brink of extinction.

Certainly Vaddakku vassal must have been a important place during chola period for the fact there does seems much of burnt out remnants from the outliers compared to Keelavaasal that could have been more active after Nayakkar’s period. Moreover, Vaddakku vassal also lies close to the speculated chola palace site near Srinivasapuram. Keelavaasal was more of a market place until recently before the major expansion of Thanjavur town took place. (This place still has local market and commodities shops and typically Ayurvedic medical shops). Vaddakku vassal area in terms of market place and distribution of shops has striking similarities to Keelavaasal.

Vaddakku vassal would have been more related in terms of chola period for the following reasons;

1. The ‘Raaja Paattai’ (meaning the Trunk road for the kings) connecting Kudanthai Palace near Darasuram in kumbakonam and Thanjavur palace allegedly around Srinivasapuram runs through Aavoor. There is no reason to go all the way from Srinivasapuram in the West to Keelavaasal in the East. When the Kudanthai palace is actually in the North East direction.

From the memories

1. The massive archway that was demolished in Keelavaasal in 1980’s during highway expansion works is the way that the Maratha kings entered the town from Madurai.
2. Also on the eastern side of Thanjavur in front of that archway was the fort wall with a cannon that was last fired during Maratha period.
3. St peters school ground was a massive town pond mainly used for military animals like horses and elephants. And the massive stables are the main class rooms for primary schools
4. Very close to the palace ground where a treasure chest was found by a family in 1970’s during the renovation of their house (the treasure was mainly jewelries from the royal blood that was burnt alive on a ritual to have a heir during the last king from Maratha rule.
5. There is a massive archway in the palace grounds close to the west police station in Keela Raaja veethi. This Archway is 50 meters long there is a Hanuman temple within this Archway. During 1980’s a Vagrant who found himself at home inside this archway took a iron bar from the temple gate to a iron smith in Keelavaasal to get some cash to everyone surprise that Bar turned out to be gold that was discolored from time. The archeology then removed all those Bars from the temple immediately the temple is closed and the fate of the BAR’S is left with the providence.

1. Area 1 : St.Peters Higher secondary school ground. previously a large pond used by the locals.

2. Area 2: the place were the Hanuman Temple is ( Gold Bar found by the Vagrant)

3. Area 3: stables for Elephant and Horses ( St.Peters primary school campus presently)

Ruins of Ancient “Chatram” (Inn) for Travellers in Thanjavur

Ruined Shiva Temple in “Palliagraharam” Thanjavur

Mandapam near Punainallur with Underground Tunnel

Thanjavur A heritage but ill-fated Town is Under Threat.

I hope someone who reads this article recognizes the magnitude of this issue and will cascade this information appropriately and endeavour to save this wonderful town.

This amazing town, host to many monuments some in the form of ruins, is the gateway back in time to see the history that civilisation has given us centuries ago in the form of forts, temples, museum etc. Many of these ruins are from monuments that were left over following destruction of the kingdom by enemies of chola’s in the past, they have until now withstood all the natural calamities and will continue to do so for centuries to come if maintained or at least left alone. However, these ancient artefacts are now in the malicious hands of real estate owners and building contractors, who are intent on mushrooming every minute space alongside ignorant politicians who dwell under party banners, they have no idea of the history that this remarkable town harbours. The generations who know this town well for its history and pride, and those who cannot bear to see the state of heaven turning to hell have either passed away or left the town taking just their great memories and leaving the fate of the town to the providence.

The current residents of the town pretend to be ignorant and busy themselves by making money or simply have no power in themselves to change the current destiny of the town. The few who have displayed the courage that exist to mourn about this disaster has been pondering over decades with no progress due to lack of political or public support. Therefore this town has never seen a whistle blower for good in decades and is withering away with misanthropist.

The picture above located near Punainallur Maariyamman koil is locally called kurangu mandapam. It is well known to the locals from its location close to a great lake in thanjavur called Rani Samudram. This lake disappeared at the blink of an eye by the real estate owners with the blessings from the local politicians who are the natural scavengers of this town. This small building has two underground tunnel one leading to the current Maratha palace and the other one unknown. No excavations are made yet due to lack of funds. However, you can see the real estate people have occupied those areas and in matter of days the building will be ground zero before new developments flats appears. Similarly, a pond in Vallam a small town in the outskirts of thanjavur in Thanjavur- Thiruchirapalli highways faces threat. I have briefed about this historical town from early chola’s (Karikala cholan period).This pond that lies close to an Engineering College is referred as Gauthama theertham. It is said that Gauthama maharishi had an Ashram around this place and there is a temple close to this pond. Sadly this pond is under encroachment issues and still the case is in local court.

I have mentioned about the town planning from Nayakkar period of rule in thanjavur with two important ponds (Samanthan Kulam and Ayiyan Kulam) that bears the name of the Nayakkar. Ayiyan Kulam is well maintained as you can see from the picture. The varying state of the ponds build in the same period for same reasons in town planning merely reflects the cultural attitude of local colonies around these ponds.

ASI during recent excavation (that rarely happens in this town) during Raja Raja Cholan temple festival retrieved few idols from early periods in Samanthan Kulam.

I still remember a massive Archway in the Eastern side of thanjavur town close to Vella pillaiyar koil that was demolished in 1970’s to facilitate traffic of the town that has never improved despite losing the monumental Archway through which the Maratha Kings entered Thanjavur town in History. This was a foremost blunder in contemporary town planning particularly considering a monumental town.

It is with great regret we have to learn the fact, that this town is better acknowledged by the people from other suburbs and foreigners than the local inhabitants. When, I visited a place in Chidambaram which is a Shiva temple in Thirunaaraiyur that had a Statue of King Raja Raja within the temple complex close to Sanctum Sanctorum where they speak about the glory of King Raja Raja and his remarkable  effort to recover Thevaram,which was close to its extinction at his time. In contrary to King Raja Raja’s dedication to the society to preserve the culture and help sustain the treasures from all calamities. The self Admiring current day political leaders spending millions of Rupees in the name of King Raja Raja during  festivals, dismissing the gloomy state of this highly historical town in the hands of destructive forces is nothing but a political mockery.

Recently a builder in Thanjavur during a routine house construction in Srinivasapuram Township found a forty feet long pillar with detailed inscriptions belonging to King Raja Raja’s Palace and its location engraved in it, with a fear this place may be possessed by the government for archaeological excavation, they had destroyed it into 100 pieces within the next few hours of discovery and used it for the basement construction. But some good hearted brick mason had informed the locals and it was promptly recovered by appropriate people,which can now be viewed in local Museum.

Regrettably, the haste of destruction is much faster than the speed of recognition by the authorities and the locals to restore this colossal Monumental Town.It is very imperative that the local residents, school children and those local inhabitants who are now outliers are better informed and educated to preserve this great Heritage town that is full of treasure until then, we can only implore divine intervention.

Culture and Arts of Thanjavur

Arts and culture flourished in Thanjavur during Cholas rule and was further encouraged by the later Nayakkars and Marathi kings. Carnatic music festivals, Thanjavur art plates, Thanjavur paintings and Thanjavur clay toys that are now in display for sale reminds the prominence of once great capital.

Thanjavur a Religious Capital

Thanjavur being a multi-cultural town consists of people from shaivam, Vaishnavism, Jainism, Buddhism, Christianity and Islamic communities. The composition of the various religions within this small town stands as its hallmark. The diversity of this township results directly from the ever changing ruling dynasty. Following the chola rule in Thanjavur the Vijayanagara kingdom was established under Sevappa Nayakkar. There is sub-sect of the Telugu speaking community who still have their roots in Thanjavur. Similarly, the existing Marathi Community of Thanjavur are the descendants from the Marathi pioneers who voyaged with their king.

There is a street in Karanthatangudi called “Jaina Theru” where people from the Jain community reside and the people of Islam inhabit around a place called “Keelavasal”. The evidential entities, of the congregation of communities in particular area, can be religious centres such as temples and mosques, usually date back to the time of settlement.

Place called “Palliagraharam” in the out skirts of Thanjavur, is inhabited by people belonging to Vaishnavism and Shaiva communities. The temples for those societies can clearly signify the time of establishment. With such a diverse multicultural background for over 1000 years, the numerous temples, cathedrals and mosques with abundance of architectural exquisiteness projects an air of cultural ambience over the town.

Thanjavur district is further divided into 8 Talukas. In addition to great temples belonging to various eras It is also the main base for visiting Navagraha temples in the district.

Planet	Place	Deity
Moon	Thingaloor	Kailasanathar
Sun	Suryanar koil in Thirumangalakudi	Sivasuriyaperuman
Raghu	Thirunageswaram	Naganathar
Ketu	Keelaperumpallam	Naganathar
Bhudan	Thiruvengadu	Swetharanyeswarar
Sevai (Mars)	Vaitheeswaran koil	Vaitheswaranathar
Venus (Sukiran)	Kanjanoor	Agneeswarar
Jupiter (Guru)	Alangudi and  Thittai temple	Abatshahewarar
Sani (Saturn)	Thirunallar and Kuchanoor in theni	Dharbaranyeswaraswamy

There are temples dating back to 6^th Century from the Thanjavur district. Thanjavur was the largest district in Tamilnadu state until it was divided into Thiruvarur district for constitutional administrative convenience.

Navagrahasthalams

1. Guru Sthalam (Dakshinamoorthy) Thittai

2. Chandran sthalam (Thingaloor)

Important Historical Towns around Thanjavur

Vallam is a quaint little village in the Thanjavur district, situated along the highway between Thanjavur and Tiruchirappalli. Until recent excavations around these areas, not much was known about Vallam. However, after the excavations around Vallam, it became apparent that Vallam must have been one of the predominant ancient cities of the Cholan Kingdom.

Some of the most important cities during the Early Chola period from epigraphical reference are Vallam, Poombukar, Urayur, Aarur, Aavoor, Arcot and Kudavaasal.  This statement is based on the ancient Chola Scriptures, such as Copper Plates and ancient Literatures, discovered by the Tamil University excavation from 1989 to 1993. The artefacts found were dated from around 170 BC to 110 AD.

Not much evidence has been discovered about Thanjavur, particularly during the early Chola period. The history of Thanjavur, based on what has been found only dates back to the 7^th Century that we have discussed above, however Vallam has been praised in multitudes for over 2200 years. The great ancient poet Baranar has mentioned in his song, which can be found in the Agananuru, describes Vallam as a great city and he particularly praises the prosperity of this kingdom. It is interesting to note, during the renovation in 1987, in a Temple in Villupuram District, in a village called as Esalam, Ramanadeshwar Temple.  They have discovered 23 copper plates and pooja items, in the outer pragaram. Out of the 23, 15 of that contains information about Rajendra Chola. The copper plates bear the official Chola Crest, which is known to have belonged to Rajendra Chola.

Very little evidence has been found regarding Thanjavur, particularly from the early Chola period. What information has been revealed dates only back as far as the 7^thCentury, whereas Vallam has been renowned for over 2200 years. It is even mentioned in one of the songs written by Baranar that can be found in the Agananuru, he states in particular about the prosperity of the kingdom.  During a renovation, in 1987, of Ramanadeshwar Temple in Esalam, in the district of Villupuram; 23 copper plates along with pooja items have been found in the outer pragaram. Of the 23, 15 of which contains information about Rajendra Chola. The plates bear the official Chola Crest, known to have belonged to Rajendra Chola. There was information about Rajendra Chola’s ancestor the lineage preceded even Karikala Chola. Musukunda Chola, ancestor to Karikala Chola, bears a descendant, whom again is prior to Karikalan, is said to be the founder of Vallam.

The commentaries written by Nachinarkiniyar on the Tholgappiyam, regards Vallam, along with some other cities as phenomenal.

More information from my memories will posted later on with pictures

Vajrabureeswarar Aalayam

Article by Sree Divya Bharathi

There is a beautiful Shiva temple in Vallam near Thanjavur. The deity there is Vajrabureeswarar, the legend goes to say that Lord Indira had worshipped this Vajrabureeswarar to annihilate his sins; following the curse of Kausigar Muni when Indira deceptively had an affair with Agaligai. There is a large dilapidated pond south of the temple the depth of which is still unknown. It is believed that Lord Rama came here with Seetha, in his journey back from Sri Lanka after defeating Ravana. During their journey, Seetha had become extremely thirsty. As the path they had taken was an arid desert, Rama using his Vajrayutham (Celestial Weapon), that drilled a crate, overflowing with water, so vast and so deep that its depth is still undiscovered, even today.   The last attempt at measuring its depth leads to an estimate of more than 40 feet.

The Temple committee has attempted renovation on the temple and as their hammers touched the slabs of stone around the pragaram, there was a resounding ‘AUM’ emanating from these slabs. When they ignored the sound and continued to hit the sound intensified, frightened the workers refused to work on and the project was abandoned. However, they completed the work on the outer pragaram.

Close to the temple there is a large Banyan tree and the local people refer it to as Kausigar Muni’s Ashram. Further north there lays a pond which is referred to as Kausigar theertham. 90% of this pond is currently encompassed in the Periyar engineering college campus. The locals and people from the temple committee have appealed to the court, to preserve this pond and its history and heritage. However it’s a long battle particularly in an age where pages of history and essences of scriptures all have a price tag attached.

The temple has a Sthala Virutcham this tree cannot be seen anywhere in the world. It emits a fragrance so mild and enchanting, that envelopes the entire temple. According to the priest, it is written in the Purana’s that this tree is only to be found in the astral world.

2. Agowri Amman ( Karikal chola Mahakali)